GmbH Fall/Winter 2026
At Berlin’s cavernous Kraftwerk Berlin, GmbH staged one of the most arresting shows of the Autumn/Winter 2026 season. The collection, titled Friedensangst – or “fear of peace” – took its cue from a recent German term used to describe the unease of arms-industry executives at the idea of war ending. For designers Benjamin Alexander Huseby and Serhat Işık, the word became both an accusation and an atmosphere. Beneath the industrial shadows of the former power plant, they used fashion to explore complicity, greed and the haunting repetition of history. “Is this the same as what happened a hundred years ago in Germany?” Huseby asked backstage. The question lingered over the show like smoke.
The staging and styling carried that tension through every detail. Models marched through Kraftwerk in glossy black leather, latex, and strict tailoring that recalled both uniform and rebellion. Suits swung between banker precision and nightclub seduction, while exposed torsos, thigh-high boots, and stocking-like layers blurred lines between control and surrender. A recurring floral motif – delicate and defiant – softened the severity just enough to hint at vulnerability. Styled by Ellie Grace Cumming, the collection channelled the energy of 1980s Berlin’s experimental music scene, referencing DAF, Einstürzende Neubauten and Blixa Bargeld. The result was part elegy, part riot – a sharp meditation on how subculture can survive within systems built to silence it.
What made Doppelgänger so powerful was not only its critique but its emotional clarity. GmbH has never diluted its message, even after nearly a decade of working independently, and this collection reaffirmed that commitment. The designers printed poems by Bertolt Brecht on guests’ seats, anchoring the fashion in language and resistance. When Charli XCX’s Chains of Love closed the show, it felt like both a release and a requiem. In a world that profits from conflict, GmbH dared to imagine what peace might look like, and what it might cost.
