Elisabetta Franchi Spring 2027

Elisabetta Franchi’s Spring/Summer 2027 woman has apparently stopped following the rules. Sportswear met tailoring, corsetry collided with sheer fabrics and lingerie references ran through almost every part of the collection. Cycling shorts were paired with roomy jackets, including a particularly good tuxedo, while shiny leather coats and trenches were pulled together with corset-style lacing. The intention was spontaneity and sensuality rather than polished perfection, but there was often a lot competing for attention.

Corsetry became the collection’s dominant device, appearing as laced backs, structured belts and bustiers layered over otherwise sporty looks. One of the more literal combinations paired a leather bustier with double gold zips and black cycling shorts, while sheer skirts and tights-like fabrics pushed the lingerie idea further. Shrunken jaguar prints appeared across tights, blazers and elbow-length gloves, adding another layer to a collection already crowded with references.

The irony is that the simplest looks were often the strongest. A slinky white dress with a racer-style front and high collar needed little else, while a red ruched top-and-skirt combination used cut-outs more effectively than some of the heavily styled looks. Eveningwear also had a clearer sense of purpose: a ruby-red sequin slip dress under a black tuxedo jacket and a series of spangled skirts delivered the kind of theatrical glamour that suits Franchi without requiring quite so much visual noise.

There is clearly an appetite at Elisabetta Franchi for pushing its familiar sensuality into less predictable territory, but SS27 occasionally confused more with more. When the collection stripped away some of its layers, the designer’s instincts became much clearer. The best pieces were not necessarily the most provocative; they were the ones that understood exactly how much was needed to make an impact.