Elie Saab Spring 2026 Couture

Elie Saab turned back the clock to the jet-set era of the 1970s for his Spring 2026 couture collection, channelling the kind of gilded glamour that once drifted between Milos and Marrakech. The mood was one of hedonistic elegance, as if the guests of La Mamounia or Club 55 had all come dressed for a cinematic finale at sunset. Metallic golds, bronzes and soft chocolate tones defined the palette, with a single shock of purple cutting through the warmth like a burst of evening light. It was a collection that celebrated freedom, sensuality and the sun-kissed sheen of a life spent chasing beauty.

The silhouettes paid homage to both the bohemian spirit of the seventies and the sharp geometry of Art Deco. Beaded chevrons, sweeping curves and lamé cutouts nodded to an era obsessed with both craft and spectacle. Swimsuit-inspired halternecks and macramé textures added a touch of insouciance, while long scarves, capes and sleeveless vests suggested movement and drama. The beauty look, with rolling waves of hair reminiscent of Talitha Getty, deepened the sense of nostalgia. Even when Saab flirted with excess, his precision with texture and detail kept the dream intact, creating a world where the past and present seemed to shimmer together.

Yet amid the shimmer, there was a flicker of constraint. A few of the narrow-cut gowns sacrificed ease for effect, briefly breaking the illusion of effortless motion that defined the show’s spirit. Still, when the models swayed down the runway to a lush orchestral soundtrack blending psychedelic and folk influences, the effect was pure escapism. Saab’s world remained one of beauty and indulgence, where women move through golden light with the quiet confidence of knowing the night is theirs.