Dries Van Noten Spring 2027

For his second collection at Dries Van Noten, Julian Klausner explored glamour in its most spontaneous form: the kind that slips into an everyday outfit through a sparkling brooch, a flash of colour or a well-chosen accessory. Imagining Hollywood actresses between studio appointments and evenings out, he built a wardrobe that felt thrown together rather than meticulously styled, but with just enough embellishment to make the ordinary feel special. It was a welcome departure from fashion’s recent fixation on restraint.

The collection paired mannish wool cardigans with sheer skirts, utilitarian jackets with colourful beads and tailored pieces scattered with tiny, glittering adornments. Brooches shaped like swallows and flowers fastened V-neck knits, while leopard-print coats, pussy-bow blouses and pencil skirts brought a touch of old-school Hollywood. Even the shoes were grounded in practicality: classic pumps, colour-blocked peep toes and new moccasins with modest block heels. The idea was glamour with both feet firmly on the ground.

Klausner then turned to the silver-screen fantasy itself, translating vintage film posters into vivid Technicolor prints across silky dresses and belted satin coats. An embellished gold coat shone like sunlight, while a midnight-blue jacket scattered with white stars offered a more theatrical take. The models moved briskly through the white show space to a soundtrack by Italian composer Piero Umiliani, where street noise and orchestral flourishes gave the presentation the pace of a city in motion.

There was nothing particularly precious about the proposition. Klausner’s glamour was playful, accessible and deliberately unbuttoned, built around the pleasure of dressing up rather than dressing to impress. In a season dominated by pared-back wardrobes, Dries Van Noten made a case for the brooch, the bright print and the occasional bit of sparkle. Quiet luxury can take the afternoon off.