Denzil Patrick Spring/Summer Marching Into 2025

Daniel Gayle’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection for Denzil Patrick, titled “One More Time With Feeling,” marked a significant moment for the designer—his first runway show in London, his hometown. It felt like a homecoming, where Gayle explored the uniforms of the British working class, blending them with elements of leisure and personal hobbies. Bright orange swimming armbands and gilded trumpets appeared alongside traditional pieces like construction worker donkey jackets and bus driver shirts, all reimagined with playful details. Acanthus flower jacquard prints added a flourish to these workwear staples, while braided ropes resembling aiguillettes were draped across T-shirts. Tracksuits and tailored pieces arrived in soft shades of blush, cream, and mint blue, creating a fresh summer palette.

The collection’s practicality, rooted in the aesthetics of blue-collar workers, was infused with a touch of whimsy and delicacy. “The idea is that everyone recognizes the clothes, but we just start to twist them and bring them into a different kind of sensibility,” Gayle explained. His goal was to transform the familiar into something new, balancing function with creativity.

A sense of nostalgia permeated the collection, underscored by a tender orchestral rendition of Pulp’s “Common People” during the finale. However, thanks to the dynamic collaboration between Gayle and his husband, James Bosley, who serves as Denzil Patrick’s artistic director, the collection stayed clear of excessive sentimentality. Bosley, the romantic dreamer, and Gayle, with his background working for brands like Jonathan Saunders, Kenzo, and Victoria Beckham, formed a perfect balance. Bosley focused on the costume-level details, while Gayle ensured the designs remained grounded and relevant to today’s fashion market.

This partnership has fostered a distinctly British sensibility within Denzil Patrick, blending nostalgia with a forward-looking optimism. Amid the uncertainty of the political climate—highlighted by an upcoming election that could see the Tory party lose power after 14 years—the collection felt like a hopeful reminder that better days might lie ahead.

The show took place at London’s Swiss Church, where guests were welcomed into a minimalist setting of white walls and wooden walkways, providing a sharp contrast to the delicate instrumentals that accompanied the collection. The runway reflected London’s cultural diversity, with models carrying trumpets and molded cases, representing the city’s vibrant, multi-faceted spirit.

Gayle’s designs ranged from tonal band uniforms to multipocketed tailored suits, featuring pleated trousers in aqua hues and floral prints. British tracksuits, embroidered with cursive details, were layered over formal shirting, merging athletic and formal styles. On the more refined end, cord-printed sweaters and silk trousers appeared in bold coral shades, while glossy trench coats and button-downs added a luxurious touch.