Brioni Fall/Winter 2026/2027

Brioni’s Fall/Winter 2026 collection unfolded in Milan as a meditation on the quiet evolution of menswear. Rather than chasing reinvention, the Roman house looked inward, exploring how clothes age with their wearer and how tailoring can embody endurance rather than ephemerality. The collection began with an anecdote from the archives, where a client once asked to have his jacket let out after years, not because it had tightened but because his body had changed. It was a story that captured the spirit of the season: tailoring that lives, moves and grows with the person who wears it.

This idea of movement carried through the entire collection. Soft-shouldered double-breasted suits and fluid trousers blurred the line between formal and casual, allowing Brioni’s men to shift from office to evening without disruption. Military-inspired outerwear sat naturally alongside knit ties and relaxed shirting, while the fabric palette spoke the language of quiet refinement. Cashmere, silk, vicuña and fine wools became tools of storytelling, their textures conveying a sense of lived-in luxury. Colours moved from muted pinks and aubergine to grey and burgundy, evoking the hues of ancient architecture and late afternoon light. Each piece was conceived as part of a continuous wardrobe rather than a seasonal statement.

Outerwear provided the collection’s emotional punctuation. Reversible coats, deerskin blousons and softly quilted down jackets bridged the space between mountain and metropolis. The new Mountain Capsule drew on performance materials while preserving Brioni’s sense of poise, proving that technical wear can be elegant when filtered through a sartorial lens. It was a collection less concerned with spectacle than with permanence, one that redefined power dressing as ease, and luxury as something felt through the hand of the cloth. In Brioni’s world, true authority comes from restraint.

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Ann Demeulemeester PRE-FALL 2026

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Elie Saab Pre-Fall 2026