Balenciaga Fall 2026 Couture
For his first haute couture collection at Balenciaga, Pierpaolo Piccioli looked to the foundations of the Parisian house: shape, volume and the relationship between fabric and the body.
Presented in the courtyard of the Cité Internationale Universitaire de Paris, the Fall 2026 Couture collection marked a meeting point between Piccioli’s emotional approach to colour and craftsmanship and Cristóbal Balenciaga’s long-standing fascination with precise, architectural silhouettes.
Rather than relying on elaborate internal structures, Piccioli focused on the construction of the garments themselves. His approach centred on finding a balance between fabric, shape, colour and surface, allowing the clothes to appear as if created through a single gesture.
The collection explored contrast throughout. Minimal silhouettes were paired with expressive surfaces, from fuzzy full-legged trousers and tubular embroidery to coats finished with soft, hair-like textures. Tailoring and fluid couture techniques were combined within individual pieces, including a black T-shirt dress that merged a structured bodice with a freer, flowing skirt.
Colour played a central role in Piccioli’s vision for Balenciaga Couture, with vivid shades appearing alongside the house’s more restrained palette. Dramatic volumes emerged through silk gazar, cashmere and sculpted fabrics, including puff-sleeved jackets and coats shaped through careful manipulation of material.
The final looks pushed this exploration further, with gowns built from layered textures and exaggerated silhouettes. A feathered closing look worn by Gigi Hadid, featuring a dramatic hood surrounding the face, captured the collection’s sense of fantasy and theatricality.
Throughout the presentation, Piccioli emphasised the importance of the Balenciaga atelier, where traditional couture techniques remain central to the creative process. Hand-shaped leather and cashmere pieces demonstrated the precision behind the collection’s sculptural forms.
With Fall 2026 Couture, Piccioli did not attempt to imitate Balenciaga’s past. Instead, he approached the house’s heritage through his own language — one built around colour, emotion and the transformative power of couture.
