Anrealage Spring 2027

For Spring 2027, Kunihiko Morinaga turned his attention to the body’s outermost layer, treating skin as something that can be shed, altered and reinvented, much like clothing itself. At Anrealage, that idea extended from animal scales, feathers and fur to human patterns such as checks and polka dots, as well as digital avatars that can be changed at will. It was a collection concerned with the shifting boundaries between the natural body and its technological counterpart.

The show opened with second-skin bodysuits covered in psychedelic scales before moving into familiar wardrobe staples reimagined through trompe-l’oeil patchworks of fabric petals. Denim, varsity jackets and sporty vests appeared in unexpected textures, while traditional Japanese washi paper was paired with contrasting sequins. The silhouettes were recognisable, but their surfaces suggested something more organic and mutable.

Technology, as ever, provided the collection’s more experimental moments. Textured, 3D-printed bustier dresses shifted colour depending on the viewing angle, creating an Op Art effect. Other looks were constructed from as many as 2,000 3D-printed E Ink paper scales, which changed colour through AI mapping without emitting light like conventional LEDs. For the finale, Morinaga turned to illumination, sending out a glowing, phoenix-inspired look that suggested transformation and rebirth.

The collection also marked Morinaga’s 25th show in Paris, coinciding with a retrospective pop-up curated by Sarah Andelman on Rue de Turenne. Bringing together pieces from all 25 Paris collections, alongside an alphabet-inspired selection of objects and a soundscape by Thomas Bangalter of Daft Punk, the project offered a look at the designer’s evolving relationship with fashion, technology and the possibilities of the surface.