Alainpaul Fall 2026

 

Rising designer Alain Paul staged his biggest show to date at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, presenting a collection that felt both cerebral and tactile. The rawness of the venue contrasted with clothes that were carefully considered and richly constructed. Looking through the museum’s archives, Paul found inspiration in 18th century panniers, tapestries and corsetry, prompting a meditation on the body and the tension between freedom and restriction, volume and movement.

Archiving itself became part of the narrative. Guests found white cotton gloves placed on their seats, while certain garments appeared on the runway encased in transparent organza garment bags, as though freshly retrieved from storage. Paul even incorporated Tyvek, the protective paperlike material often used by conservators, transforming it into crinkled shirts, gloves and tanks. Titled “Répertoire,” the collection moved fluidly from satin dresses with soft pannier shapes into sharper tailoring, including sculptural coats and suits defined by broad shoulders and cinched waists.

Texture quickly took centre stage. Chunky knits doubled as stoles, jacquard sweaters added depth, and a dramatic cream bow blouse burst from the collar of a long coat. A standout denim jacket carried a three dimensional tapestry motif inspired by an 18th century textile, developed with the specialist Les Teintures de France. The show eventually slipped into evening with flapper leaning slip dresses in sage, long skirts in ballet pink and chocolate brown, and a strapless gown made from a thick wool normally reserved for outerwear. Watching the clothes pass by, it was difficult not to want to reach out and touch them, which may have been precisely why Paul placed those gloves on every seat.

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