Acne Studios Fall/Winter 2026

Acne Studios turned 30 this year, though in typical Swedish fashion, Jonny Johansson marked the milestone without spectacle. Instead of a retrospective, the designer presented a collection that looked forward by quietly interrogating what heritage means in a culture that moves too fast to remember yesterday’s trends. “I used to be the youngest in the room,” Johansson said, “and now suddenly, I’m the oldest.” That observation set the tone for a season shaped by reflection rather than nostalgia. The Fall/Winter 2026 collection revisited the brand’s codes of awkward elegance and textural play, reframing them through the lens of maturity.

Tailoring became Johansson’s medium for this subtle reinvention. Pinstriped suits, caramel leather trousers, and weathered flight jackets formed a wardrobe that felt lived-in yet deliberate. The 1970s silhouettes were polished but never pristine, styled with slouchy mohair cardigans and glossy bomber jackets that hinted at rebellion beneath restraint. Even Acne’s iconic denim, the backbone of its early identity, appeared reimagined as trompe-l’œil jeans printed with collage effects, proving that the house can still turn the mundane into something intriguingly offbeat. “It’s about admiration now, not irony,” Johansson noted, and that shift could be felt in every stitch.

This quieter confidence was perhaps the most striking change of all. Acne Studios has long occupied the space between streetwear and intellect, but this season felt more grounded — as if the brand had finally embraced its own history. There were nods to pop culture, from Princess Diana’s soft hair silhouette to 1990s Britpop ease, yet the message was distinctly adult. Johansson’s designs no longer chased novelty; they suggested endurance. In rethinking what it means to grow older in fashion, Acne Studios offered a refreshing perspective: heritage is not something to archive, but something that continues to evolve, wrinkle, and breathe.