The Best Haute Couture SS24 Shows From Paris Fashion Week

Every fashion season, Paris Haute Couture week comes in, leaving the industry breathless. It's not just the spectacle of runway theatrics—although, let’s be real, that’s half the fun—but also the intricate craftsmanship that goes into each piece, the kind you don’t just wear, but archive, like fine art. Designers are pushing limits, redefining luxury, and even, sometimes, nodding to sustainability (finally). Here's a rundown of the top shows from the Spring/Summer 2024 season.

Schiaparelli

Let’s start with Daniel Roseberry, who is proving that he’s not only at Schiaparelli to honor its legacy but to twist it into something far more interesting. This season, Roseberry dipped into founder Elsa Schiaparelli's penchant for astrology—her uncle did discover those canals on Mars, after all—but also her surrealist roots. The result? A collection that made you think about where fashion is going, and maybe where humanity is too. Think: sculptural necklines that look like they could be from another planet, mixed with motifs from the Wild West (didn't see that one coming, did you?). There were cowboy boots, crocodile-embossed leathers, and fringe paired with the kind of craftsmanship that can only come from the Schiaparelli atelier. It felt very Schiap, but with a futuristic, almost otherworldly, twist that Roseberry does so well.

Vaishali S

Vaishali S returned with her trademark fusion of Indian tradition and Parisian flair, proving that she’s here to stay. Three seasons into her couture career, she's already become a fixture of the week, and this season was no exception. Her Spring/Summer 2024 collection was a masterclass in how to weave cultural heritage into high fashion. Think: handwoven silks and intricate embroidery, all while making you question if this is art, fashion, or both. The collection is an homage to nature—organic textures and floral motifs galore—but also a nod to sustainability. Vaishali manages to combine modern silhouettes with ancient craftsmanship, and the results are nothing short of breathtaking. In an era where "sustainability" is a buzzword, Vaishali S proves it can be done without sacrificing beauty or complexity.

Dior

Maria Grazia Chiuri is really digging into Christian Dior’s archives lately, and it’s working. This season, she pulled inspiration from a 1952 dress, the La Cigale, and turned it into the heart of her Spring/Summer 2024 couture collection. Set against the stunning backdrop of the Rodin Museum, Chiuri's designs felt like a dialogue between past and present. The silhouettes were classic Dior—sculpted waists and full skirts—but with a touch of ethereal modernity, courtesy of flowing black velvet and feather capes. Embroidery reminiscent of ancient poetry graced sheer organza gowns, transforming the runway into a living, breathing art installation. It was a collection that felt both familiar and new, reminding us why Dior remains at the pinnacle of French couture.

Rahul Mishra

Rahul Mishra is consistently one of the most exciting designers to watch during Paris Haute Couture Week, and this season he leaned hard into nature. His Spring/Summer 2024 collection felt like walking through a lush, enchanted garden—if that garden was on the most luxurious runway in the world. Mishra’s pieces featured hand-painted flowers, intricate beadwork, and flowing gowns that wouldn’t be out of place in a fairy tale. He’s a master of creating a sense of wonder through texture, and this season he didn’t disappoint. What sets Mishra apart, though, is his commitment to sustainability. By using eco-friendly materials and ethical practices, he’s showing that couture doesn’t have to come at the expense of the planet. That’s a message worth paying attention to.

Giambattista Valli

If you’re coming to a Giambattista Valli show, you know you’re going to get something romantic and whimsical, but this season, Valli brought even more fantasy to his Spring/Summer 2024 collection. Imagine a lush garden setting with models floating down the runway in layers of tulle, ruffles, and floral appliqués. His signature voluminous silhouettes were on full display, but he also introduced a more modern edge with sharp tailoring and bold colors. Pastels mingled with vibrant hues, creating a sense of joy that felt almost contagious. Giambattista Valli isn’t just making clothes; he’s creating moments that feel like they belong in a dream—or at least on the red carpet at Cannes.

Alexis Mabille

Alexis Mabille took a softer approach this season, moving away from his signature jewel tones in favor of a more neutral palette. The result? A collection that felt sophisticated and restrained, but still had that Mabille drama we love. Think: ivory, ballet pink, and beige with the occasional pop of bronze or red. Mabille’s pieces are all about structure, with architectural gowns that feel like they could double as sculptures. Oversized bows, intricate lacework, and asymmetrical necklines added a touch of whimsy, but it was the understated elegance that really stood out. It’s a collection that feels like Mabille is growing up—without losing any of the fun.

Julien Fournie

Futuristic minimalism isn’t what you usually associate with haute couture, but Julien Fournie is out here proving it can work. His Spring/Summer 2024 collection was all about sleek lines, geometric shapes, and bold metallics. It felt like watching the future of fashion walk down the runway, but in a way that still felt luxurious and special. The craftsmanship was impeccable—laser-cut details, intricate beading, and luxurious fabrics added depth to every piece. Fournie’s vision for the future of couture isn’t just about looking forward; it’s about pushing boundaries while staying rooted in the tradition of high fashion.

Ronald van der Kemp

Ronald van der Kemp is the king of sustainable couture, and his Spring/Summer 2024 show was a perfect example of why. His entire collection was made from upcycled materials, but you’d never know it just by looking at it. Bold patterns, intricate embroidery, and statement silhouettes were all on display, proving that ethical fashion can be just as glamorous as its traditional counterpart. There’s something rebellious about van der Kemp’s work—like he’s out to prove that you don’t have to follow the rules to make something beautiful. And honestly, who doesn’t love a little rebellion in couture?

Zuhair Murad

If you’re looking for a fairy tale, look no further than Zuhair Murad. His Spring/Summer 2024 couture collection was dripping in opulence, with layers of tulle, intricate beadwork, and enough lace to make a bride swoon. The show was held in a venue as grand as the gowns themselves, and Murad delivered exactly what his fans have come to expect: a red-carpet-ready collection that feels straight out of a Disney movie. The pastel and jewel tones made each piece pop, while the delicate floral motifs and shimmering fabrics added an extra layer of magic. Zuhair Murad’s world is one where fantasy reigns, and for a moment, we all get to be part of it.

Valentino

Pierpaolo Piccioli’s Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 show felt like a love letter to femininity. Flowing silhouettes, intricate lacework, and ruffles dominated the runway, creating a collection that felt both romantic and powerful. Piccioli played with a soft pastel palette, but also introduced bursts of vibrant color that kept things interesting. The embellishments were the real stars of the show, though—floral appliqués, shimmering sequins, and delicate embroidery made each piece feel like a work of art. Valentino is a house that knows how to do couture, and this season was no exception.

Robert Wun

Finally, Robert Wun brought his signature architectural innovation to the Spring/Summer 2024 runway. Known for pushing the boundaries of traditional couture, Wun’s collection was a study in bold shapes, unexpected textures, and daring silhouettes. His use of monochrome and metallics added to the futuristic feel of the show, while intricate draping and sculptural forms made each piece a standout. Wun’s designs feel like they’re from another planet, but in the best way possible. He’s creating a new language for couture, one that’s all about empowerment and innovation.